Presidential Traverse
White Moutains, NH
July, 1999
To: mitoc@MIT.EDU
Subject: Trip Report: Presidential Traverse
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 10:53:52 EDT
From: Michael J Freedman
Presidential Traverse
Saturday, July 10, 1999
Mike Freedman, Luke Sosnowski, Andrew Yip
The Presidential Traverse is a classic hike of the entire
Presidential Mountain Range in the northern White Mountains. A
peak bagger's dream, the hike encompasses 10 of the 4000 footers.
The traverse is generally accomplished as a two-day hike, but can
be done as a long, intensive day-hike.
On Friday night, we all arrived in separate cars at Intervale
rather late (between 10pm and 1am), so decided to set up the
car shuttle in the morning instead. Awakening at 5:00am, we
first drove north to drop cars off at Pinkham Notch (the bail-out
point) and Dolly Copp Campground. The forecast had called for
rain, a 30% chance of thunderstorms, and lower temperatures than
the normal July heat (the previous week in Boston witnessed record
90F+ temperatures). But Intervale had fairly clear skies, so
we started with hopeful expectations. In the north, however, rain
was pouring down in heavy sheets. Driving back south to the trailhead
at Crawford Notch, the skies had become overcast, fog descended
across the mountain range, and a drizzle started to fall. We
decided to rush up above treeline and then reconsider our plans.
Southern Presidentials:
(start 7:45am) While rising through the trees along the Crawford path,
the light rain stopped. By the time we hiked above treeline, fog had
blanketed the area, greatly limiting visibility. The trail looked
somewhat surreal: rocks poking out all about you, but white mists
blocking any further view. The drop-off could have been 10 ft or
10,000 ft, it was impossible to tell. The three of us were totally
isolated, surrounded by our 50'-radius world comprised of shrubs,
a path, and three individuals. Mount Pierce led to Eisenhower,
Franklin, and Monroe. We unfortunatley missed Mt. Jackson, as another
path other than Crawford was needed to get there. Confusion was easy
given the conditions (hence the shorter distances described below -
the normal traverse is ~22 miles.)
40 mph winds blew off the fog twice during this part of the hike:
providing a sweeping view of Bretton Woods and the Southern
Presidentials. We realized that most people did this traverse
for the amazing views. Although most of these were lacking, the
two views we witnessed - tendrils of fog screaming over the peaks
and sweeping through the valleys - made the entire hike worthwhile.
The Lake of the Clouds AMC Hut provided a short break, before the final
1.5 mile hike up Mt. Washington. The wind picked up greatly, and
temperatures slowly dropped.
Mount Washington:
(summit 12:30pm) Atop 6288' Mt Washington, heavy fog and powerful winds
greeted us. The observatory measured 47 deg F and 60 mph gusts (about
50-55 mph winds sustained). We were traveling ultra-light - a shell,
water, power/clif bars, tiny head/flash lights, camera, and 1 small first
aid kit - stuffed into Camelbak-sized packs. So, the cafeteria on Mt.
Washington provided great hot food and nourishment, although car-loads of
tourists photographing themselves in jean shorts and flip-flops seemed to
mock all the hikers.
Park guides described merely our plotted path as "long" and refused
to comment more about some of our planned trails. Mediocre weather
remained, but the conditions were not worsening. Although the weather
was disconcerting after the warmth of the observatory, we decided to
press on and bypass our bail-out point at Pinkham Notch.
Northern Presidentials:
(start 1:45 pm) We hiked along the ridge between Mt. Washington
and Clay, watching the Cog Railroad dump disgusting fumes, reeking
of dirty coal. (Why do people travel and pay $44 (!) to see the
natural expanses of the Whites, only to help destroy it in the process?)
Mount Jefferson was reached, hiking atop lichen-drenched rocks.
Conditions worsened, however, and rain started falling in earnest.
Powered by 40 mph winds, the water smacking horizontally into anybody
still hiking. We saw very few other brave souls, and nobody with our
distance still to go. The rocks grew slippery, and the jagged edges
bespoke of twisted ankles. But we pressed on, now silent, as speech
couldn't be heard over the howling wind and rain. Although gore-tex
shells kept upper bodies dry (and Yip's trekking poles provided some
purchase), water quickly invaded thinner pants and soaked down into
gore-tex boots (which keep water in as well as they keep water out.)
Mount Adams was reached and passed, the warmth of the AMC Madison
Hut was now our goal. Travel slowed, and we finally reached the Hut
at 5:15pm. The AMC cabins are somewhat a paradox - there are supposedly
for hikers, yet provide almost gourmet meals (comparatively) and
bunk beds for $50-60/night. One table was filled with older 60-ish
people, who were sharing a bottle of white wine, rounds of good
gouda cheese, boxes of fancy crackers, and tins of sardines. (The
AT is an easy 3.7 miles from the highway). Here we were, dripping
and tired, yet our appearance was greeted with disdain from other
so-called "nature enthusiasts"! I found this rather strange. That
aside, hot chocolate, powerbars, and drained boots and socks provided
the impetus we needed to push on, so we left the wine-drinkers at
quarter of 6. One of the college students commented on our plans
with upraised eyebrows: "From Crawford? Quite a gnarly day for
the Presidentials!" Once a surfer, always a surfer.
Our plan was to follow the Parapet and Osgood Trails, then to descend
below treeline to rush through to the Dolly Copp Campground as night
fell. Although the rain had thankfully ended, the wind still blew
briskly, and mud and wet lichen covering rocks proved extremely
dangerous. The mile-long trail took an hour, as fast as safety allowed,
climbing up and down. As the light dimmed, we got below treeline and
rushed along the Daniel Webster Scout trail. After 10 hours of exposed
travel, the dirt trail was a welcome change. Our pace picked up greatly,
and we reached the Dolly Copp Campground at 8:30 pm. We finally found
where to ford the river between the the campsight and our car (it
appears that an older bridge has been removed). Saying goodbye at 9pm,
Yip headed for Boston, while Luke and Mike planned to overnight again
at Intervale.
[ An Aside: After Luke and I picked up my car from Crawford Notch, we
headed back into North Conway. I was pretty exhausted at the time, and
found myself all over the road. While stopped at the Quik Mart so Luke
could phone Boston, I quickly feel asleep in my car. I was awoken
30 sec later to a flashlight in my face and a cop's voice, "We've
received complaints about this car tonight. Please step outside."
Totally groggy, I got out and listened to how a driver used a cell
phone to dial 911: suspected DUI. Well, my car passed examination,
and I passed the field sobriety test with flying colors. "Honestly, sir,
I haven't drank anything tonight! I've been hiking all day and just
utterly exhausted." I guess hiking and driving just don't mix well.
Food report: In the morning, we found that Bagels Plus serves great
bagel sandwiches, opening at 6:45 am usually, ideal before climbing
Whitehorse or Cathedral Ledges. Seven free bagels generally sheds a
favorable light on a place.]
---------------
Our Presidential Traverse was quite trying, we were on the move
for virtually all of the daylit hours in poor conditions, with only
a few breaks for lunch and water. If you truly want to experience the
beauty of the Whites, traverse in great conditions. If you want a
testosterone overdose, try this in rain, wind, and fog. But even with
the adverse conditions (for ultra-light hiking in the summer), the
majesty of the mountains still could be felt. One memory remains in
particular: we were standing on a southern summit (Franklin?), leaning
into the wind, completely held up. Seeing only white, virtually feeling
like we were flying or skydiving, the mists were suddenly sucked away. A
solitary, unblocked view of the sun-dappled Bretton woods and the range
emerged. The fog soon reeastablished its hold, but that short window -
the entire mystique of the mountains - was truly awe-inspiring. But such
came with a very narrow margin of safety. In short: always be careful...
From the AMC Guidebook:
US 302 (Crawford Notch) to Mt. Washington via Crawford path. - 8.2 miles
Mount Washington to Madison Hut via Gulfside Trail- 6.0 miles
Madison Hut to Osgood Junction via Parapet and Osgood Trail - 1.0 miles
Osgood Junction to Dolly Copp Campground- 3.5 miles
Total: 18.7 miles + unaccounted change for peak bagging
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